AR-15 Accessories

I know that this sounds ridiculous.. right? How can it be done ?... but I think it can.

I am challenging myself to do this, no matter how long it may take.
I am going to try to purchase all of the parts for the absolute cheapest I can find. I am not going for any kind of quality here. Matching colors do not matter, it isn't going to be pretty.
As pricey as all of the AR merchandise has become in recent years, i am going to try to prove a point while still coming away with a half decent rifle.
I think I am going to hold out buying until I can find everything ( except lower) for half price.
I see "spares" advertised here and there all the time. Extra barrelsburned out barrels, beat up upper receivers that just need TLC, not to mention I have seen ancient AR-15 Accessories stock sets for dirt cheap ( $15) at shows. I think I can get a cast lower for under $100 used.

This is not just going to be an experiment... it will ultimately be a plinker rifle to give to someone ( a young 'un) as a gift to get them interested in AR-10 and shooting in general.


This may prove to be a lot of fun! Like a treasure hunt.

If anyone has any good leads on used ( abused) parts they find. I ask that you please email me a link if you think of the AR-15 Sights.

onetrekrider@yahoo.com

I will keep posting updates with pictures and the running price total as the rifle comes together.



The original twist for the AR-15 Stock M16's M193, which was 55 gr fmj, was 1:14, which was also the twist of varmint rifles shooting 55 gr. The bullet was barely, but adequately stabilized. The idea was for the bullet to begin tumbing upon impact and make a large wound channel.

Later, with the M16A1, the twist was changed to 1:12.

With the introduction of the M16A2 AR-15 Accessories and the M855 round's 62 grain penetrator, it was necessary to speed up the twist even further. 1:9 was plenty adequate, but stabilization of the 62 tr tracer in ARCTIC conditions was marginal. So, the twist was tightened even further to 1:7.

Many felt the 1:7 ruined the wounding ability of the round, and overstabilized the M855, but that is another discussion.

1:7 is overkill for the M193, 55 gr fmj, and even 1:9 is more than needed for the M193. But 1:9 is the best compromise for both AR15 M193 (55 gr) and M855 (62 gr).

There's so much crap in this thread it makes my head spin. Can we get a tacked thread about the truths about twist. This comes up every day or so and if it weren't for a few people, BS would just continue to flourish. If it weren't for phoebus and DM1975, the silliness would perpetuate.

Overstabilization is BS. That's been proven. Not all 1/9's are incapable of shooting 77's. In fact many of them do. I just shot one a couple of weeks ago that did. And it was a 14.7 length also. There is nothing that says a 1/9 might be a "little" bit more accurate than a 1/7 with any one given bullet. It may, but it may not. EVERY BARREL IS PREJUDICED. Doesn't matter what the twist is. However, a 1/14 and 1/12, will pretty much every time not stabalize a M855 bullet and most of the heavier rounds. How heavy, I'm not sure. I'm betting the 68's and up are too long and heavy for a 1/12. But I know M855 keyholes at 25 yards, at least with the 1/12 in our GUN ACCESSORIES family. Now, M855 is 62 grains, but it is a LONG 62 grain bullet due to the steel penetrator, which is a lighter metal than lead. All this is in the , and even though some people poo poo it, it should be read because it would clear alot of this and we wouldn't have to have this discussion every 12 hours or so.
I just picked up a YHM FF rail painted with krylon that I planned on stripping back down to black. After searching the site on how to remove the paint I tried some non-chlorinated carb cleaner and a stiff plastic brush. The krylon does come off but it takes A LOT of scrubbing and is a real PITA with all the little nooks and crannies on the rail (the inside is pained too). There also seems to be light film of paint on the AR-15 Magazines after scrubbing.

My question is are there any other solvents out there that work better and won't harm aluminum? I tried some 100% acetone but it did not really do much. I have some paint remover/varnish stripper in the garage, would this be safe to use? Another thread mentioned Gunscrubber, does this work better than carb cleaner?
The reason that some 1/9 twist barrels will stabilize 77 grn is because they might be on the short side of 1/9. Not all barrel twists are equal and accurate to what they say they are. Twist rate does play a big roll in how the AR-15 barrel will stabilize but even then it is up to how well the barrel is made to do a decent job. The 1/12 will not stabilize M855, I have seen and tried this several times. And it is not necessarily the weight of the bullet but its length that matters in twist rates, but longer bullets tend to be heavier vise versa....